Natural Stone, Porcelain Tiles, Wood Flooring, Laminate Flooring Installation - Maintenance

Stone is a lifestyle choice. It represents who you are. It’s a good choice too, as it is strong, stable and exudes an organic feel that can create a timeless presence in any room. Stone really is the perfect example of how Mother Nature can produce such beautiful things. When you stroke the smooth surface of natural stone remember to appreciate that its process actually began millions of years ago, deep beneath the surface of the earth.

Heat and pressure being forced together created blocks of natural stone, including granite, travertine, marble, limestone and slate. From the force of these elements mixing, the earth's crust began to grow and erode; it pushed minerals up from its core, forming massive rock deposits, which are now known as ‘quarries’.

Stone has always played a huge part of our lives from ancient monuments like the pyramids in Egypt and the majestic Greek and Roman temples, to the great civilizations of India and China. It’s only now that recent trends for larger bathrooms and kitchens, that stone is well and truly making its come back. Stone is available in a vast range of colours, styles and sizes. Just take a look through each of our sections to see what stone type will suit you best. It’s readily available and with the invention of under floor heating, the worry that it will feel cold underfoot no longer exists. We also sell a huge range of under floor heating that can be tailored to your specific needs.

Before you fall in love with our range of natural stone it may be worth learning a bit more about ‘the nature of stone’. It’s an article that details how stone is made and tips on maintaining it.

1.2. The Nature of Stone

Choosing to have stone in your home is a choice that comes with responsibilities. In order to get the most out of your natural stone flooring we feel it is important that you understand the true nature of stone, where it comes from and how to take care of it.

1.3. Things you should now about stone

1. All stones are different…
You need to expect the unexpected as no one tile will be the same as the other. Each tile will exhibit natural and geological variations occurring in terms of colour, markings, texture, and movement in background. These elements all vary from batch to batch. This unpredictability also effects the current production techniques which means even sizes can’t be exactly as specified, therefore tolerance levels are set in manufacturing processes as well. As we want to make sure we still maintain high standards despite these natural occurrences, we only work with selected and known suppliers all around the world. We also employ 2 full time inspectors that travel around the world, who will go and inspect orders before they are shipped.

2. Samples are for guidance not insurance…
Use samples as a guide, not as a guarantee of colour. Samples may not always show full characteristics of a particular stone. For instance, if you are buying a multi-coloured slate, and purchasing it off only a 10x10 sample, you will be quite surprised to see the full display of different colouring inherent in that particular stone. Therefore, we suggest you look at array of samples or tiles before you purchase stone. Being aware of this, (and hence we are an Internet company, we cannot possibly offer full sample service) we have developed a system in which:

- You look at real life pictures to see the effect stone creates.

- You order a sample free of charge to see the background colour so that you can cross-reference

between the sample supplied and the photo, which will help visualise your project.

3. All stone tiles will need sealing…
Natural tiles are to a greater or lesser extent porous and need to be impregnated (or sealed). Impregnator will fill all the tiny, small voids/holes that we cannot see in the structure of the stone, therefore there will be no other place to remain than the surface for the liquid or the material that will normally stain an unsealed tile. This way, the stain will sit on top of the surface and will be easy to wipe off. Which is great news if you’ve got young children running around.

4. Some corners might be chipped…
As much as you don’t want to hear that some of your delivery may be chipped, it does happen. Some stones are easily scratched and / or are subject to pitting /chipping. Especially soft limestones will be susceptible to transportation and handling. No matter what you do, you will get some tiles with minor chippings, scratches etc. Don’t worry, as you will always have tiles to cut, spare them for cutting. Also, some marbles like crema marfil (English translation cream marble) are hard but very fragile. This results in many of them breaking during production. To prevent this, crema marfil manufacturers will employ a technique called “mesh backing/gluing”. With this technique, a special thick chemical solution will be applied on the back of the tile to make the tile more stable. Sometimes you may see some tiles like cracked, however they just look like that due to its nature and it is OK. Some pitting/voids on the surface are very rarely seen as well, these are considered minor imperfections, and they are OK, too. From time to time due to these unpreventable but natural characteristics of certain stones, we may deliver extra quantities up to 5% for each order if we think these imperfections might create a problem in terms of fitting.

5. Blend, blend, blend…
Sometimes, your order might be from different batches. So, we strongly recommend all tiles be blended before installation. Whilst sorting tiles to ensure suitable blending, normal practice calls for segregation of tiles with minor damages or some unusual markings. They can be used where cut tiles are required, or in less visible locations. The installer must have an understanding of blending requirements or special patterns as part of their skills.

6. Why is my stone soaking wet?
Stone tiles are always packed in wet conditions at the factory and cannot properly dry out until unpacked; they will lighten in colour as they dry. It is therefore essential that all tiles are completely dry prior to installation to be able to assess any colour variation present. To check this, it may be necessary to place a tile in front of a direct heat source to see the true colour of the stone when it is totally dry.

7. Have you considered your wastage?
Always calculate wastage for each project before ordering, for instance minor damage to some stones which may occur in transportation or during site handling, site cutting and grading. We always recommend an additional 10% to allow for wastage. Our sales staff can help you work this out.

Understanding natural stone is also available in Adobe PDF.

2. Wood Flooring

2.1. Understanding Wood

Choosing to have wooden flooring in your home is a big decision that comes with responsibilities. In order to get the most out of your wooden flooring we feel there are six important things you need to consider.

1. It’s a natural choice.
Wood is a natural product. Its straight from Mother Nature which means it’s beautiful to look at, comfortable to walk on, creates an ambience that lasts a long time. It is also non-allergenic, which in this day and age is often a good reason to fit it. Wood is renewable, unlike plastics and many other modern materials, so when it is replaced, one day in the future, it completes the circle of life and is reunited with Mother Nature.

2. Wood gets better with age.
Unlike humans, wood actually looks better rover time. All wood changes colour. That’s due to its interaction with the environment, like its exposure to sunlight. Some species darken quickly, while other changes less dramatically.

3. Smart floors are kinder to nature
A modern floor, such as engineered flooring is made up on the multi-layer principle. It makes it more stable and more likely to stay level even during the dramatic changes in weather that we have been witnessing lately. A solid wood floor, by its nature will crack and warp easily. Engineered floors make good use of natural resources without compromising its lifespan.

4. Its warm
Underfloor heating works well with wooden floors that have been locked in and fitted properly. It also means that the floor stays flat and that gaps will never appear in between the planks. We have a full range of under floor heating systems. Just ask our Sales Team about them when you place your order.

5. You can feel it.
Maintaining a wooden floor takes some effort The surface treatment of the wood must be strong enough to withstand daily wear and tear, yet sufficiently thin and transparent that you can see and experience the feeling of nature. We have a full range of lacquers that can be applied thinly, which will help to retain the character of the wood. Some wooden floors have a layer of lacquer so thick that the floor feels plastic and artificial. If you want to fell even more texture, you can choose a floor with a matt lacquer or natural oil finish.

6. Who will use the floor?
The last and final thing to consider is who will use the floor? Is it mainly adults, or will there be babies crawling around on it? What about pets? Where will it be installed? Bedroom? Kitchen? The hardness of the wood can be a crucial practical factor when you make your selection. There are many types of wood that look the same but they vary greatly in hardness. When choosing your wooden flooring you may find it useful to discuss your needs with our Sales Team who will be happy to help you choose the right type of wood for your room, your situation and your lifestyle.

2.2. General maintenance and installation information on wooden floors

Tips on installation your wooden flooring

As Floorell don’t offer a fitting service, you will need to either fit your chosen flooring yourself or hire a professional to do it for you. Either way, here’s some advice that you may find useful.

On cement or stone floors:
When installing the planks on cement or stone floors, watch for uneven areas and level these out with a leveling compound before installation. Ask our Sales Team to add this item to your order. A vapor barrier of 0.2 mm thick PE is essential as is footfall sound insulation, e.g. PE foam.

On floor boards:
Level out uneven areas or lay out the room with installation chipboards before installation. Make sure you fasten all loose planks. It helps to install your Floorell flooring at right angles to the running direction of the planks. Don’t forget to add the footfall sound insulation on the wooden planks before installation. Do not use on a PE film.

On wood-based panels:
If you’re thinking of installing your floorboards on top of chipboard or fiberboards you must level out all uneven areas. Make sure that you always lay footfall sound insulation between the installation plates and the planks. Do not use a PE film.

On PVC or linoleum floors:
If you’re laying your wooden flooring on top of a PVC or linoleum floor you must make sure the flooring is completely glued. Please note that warm-water under floor heating system cannot be used. Make sure you always install footfall sound insulation.

On warm-water under floor heating systems:
If you’re thinking of installing your wooden flooring on top of a warm water under-floor heating system it’s important that you make sure all mineral underlying floors are heated to allow moisture that can damage the wood floor to escape.

The temperature of the warm-water under floor heating system should be increased in 5°C steps every day until the maximum heating capacity is reached. Finally, the heating system must heat continuously at full capacity for at least 72 hours.

Measure the residual moisture in the floor and allow for the following residual moisture contents:

Cement floor <1.5 % cement moisture (CM)

Anhydrite floor <0.3 % cement moisture (CM)

If the residual moisture content falls below these values, the heating system must be switched off again for 1-2 days before installation. During installation, the surface temperature of the cement floor must be at least 15°C but not more than 20°C. After installation – to which also our general guidelines for floating installation apply – the surface temperature of the floor must not exceed 25°C at most.

Some under floor heating systems may not suitable for Floorell’s wooden flooring. During heating periods – especially in winter – the relative humidity decreases. As a result, a natural product like wood dries out severely, which in turn can promote the formation of gaps. We suggest that you use a humidifier you can counteract the shrinking of the wood and this also has benefits for your health. An ideal room climate is given at a relative humidity of 50–60%. We do have a specific underfloor heating system designed especially for our wooden floor products. Give our Sales Team a call and they will advise you which system will suit your needs best.

2.3. How to care for your wooden floor

To ensure your wooden floor retains it’s natural beauty here are a few cleaning tips to follow. We know that you won’t want to spend hours cleaning, so we’ve made them as quick and as simple as possible:

• Remember, the drier, the better - always clean with a well wrung out cloth or mop lengthways along the planks.

• Floor mats are a good way to stop large build ups of dirt in entrance areas. But don’t use rubber-backed or non-ventilated mats or rugs as they may damage your floor. Instead use mats or rugs made especially for hardwood floors and remember to shake them out regularly.

• It’s also good idea to place mats in any areas where water may be splashed, such as near a kitchen sink.

• If sand or dirt for does get inside a groove, try to remove it immediately with a soft broom, vacuum cleaner or cloth.

• Using protective felt gliders under all furniture will stop scratching and denting.

• Sweep it regularly with a soft brush or vacuum to keep the surface looking clean and dust free. Once all the dirt is gone, give it a good buff and watch how it shines.

• Do not use anything other than recommended wood specific products on it – you can buy them from us- just ask our Sales Team for more information.

• Floorell’s wooden floors are finished with a ready-to-use treatment, but we do recommend that Solid Wood oil-treated floors should either be treated with maintenance oil according to the instructions directly after installation and before use, or alternatively, treated with wood soap according to the instructions directly after installation and before use.

2.4. Floorell’s top wood flooring tips

• Never wax a wooden floor that has a urethane finish, Instead use a cleaners that won’t leave a film or residue.

• It is inevitable that you may get the occasional scuff or mark on your floor boards. A hardwood floor cleaner is useful in removing them. (Just ask our Sales Team about our cleaning range). Simply spray some cleaner on a cloth and lightly rub the stained area. Sticky spots can be cleaned with a damp towel or sponge.

• As tempting as it is, do not use ammonia cleaners or oil soaps on a wood floor. They will dull the finish and affect the performance of your floor. These products will also affect the ability to recoat your floor later.

• Wood naturally expands when it is wet so you must never, ever wet mop or use excessive
water to clean your floor. Large amounts of water can cause the wood to swell and may cause your floor to crack or splinter.

• Being a natural product, hardwood will expand and contract due to moisture level changes. So always have a cloth handy to clean up spills as soon as they happen.

2.5. How to deal with long term damage

We have no doubt that your Floorell wooden flooring will last forever. But after a many number of years, if your floor is showing excessive wear beyond normal cleaning you may want to consider screening and recoating.

- What is screening and recoating?
It’s the process used to get rid of the finish that is currently on the floor. Then, simply apply new coats of urethane. This process will bring your floor back to life and make it last that bit longer. If screening and recoating doesn’t get rid of the damage you can always sand and refinish. But this should only be done if screening and recoating does not solve the problem.

- What is sanding and refinishing?
This is an extensive process where the floor is sanded down to the bare wood, restained and then refinished. If the damage is only in a small area you may want to see if replacement boards are available to save on some work.
As much as you’d like to do it yourself we highly recommend that you hire an experienced professional when having any work done on your hardwood floor.

2.6. Protecting against everyday damage

So you’ve got you beautiful new wooden floor fitted. It looks great. No sooner have you invited your friends round to have a look and you’ve already got babies throwing toys at it, people spilling drinks and high heels scrapping it. Don’t worry. There are some things we can prevent and other we can’t. Here are a few things you can do to help minimize the damage:

• All hardwood floors will fade, darken or change shades over time- it’s in their nature you can’t actually stop it. But you can reduce it’s exposure to sunlight with blinds or curtains, window treatments as well as rotating area rugs and furniture regularly to allow floors to age evenly from UV exposure.

• To prevent scratches cover furniture and table legs with protectors.

• When you’re moving heavy objects across your floor be careful.

• Ask people to remove stiletto heels as they can cause dents and scratches that are not covered by your warranty. Have a pair of slippers at the ready for them to slip into instead.

• Protect against pet damage by regularly trimming their nails or claws to avoid scratches on the hardwood floor.

Wood fooring installation - care information is also available in Adobe PDF.

2.7. Wood finish information

Once you’ve chosen what type of wood you want, you then have to choose the finish. The finish on your flooring can be for either practical or aesthetic reasons. If you know that you’re going to have people trampling all over the floor every day then a protective finish may serve you best, or if you want a ‘show home’ look, an oil finish will make sure your floor always up to scratch! Just take a look at our full range. If you need any help deciding which product would suit your wood best, just give our Sales Team a call, they’re always happy to help.

Lacquer
Protect Ultra is an extremely durable lacquer, a so-called "anti-scratch lacquer" which is incredibly resistant to surface scratching. So if you think your floor might be subject to high-heels, children, or furniture shifting then this could be for you. Lacquer also provides a beautiful, silk matt sheen and a surface which is easy to maintain.

Matt Lacquer
Want all the benefits of lacquer, but without the shiny finish, then Matt Lacquer is for you. It provides the same durable surface as lacquer but with a matt look, just like oiled hardwood flooring.

Oil
This product if for hard-core users. Nothings going to get by this protection. Pre-Oil works by seeping into the wood and hardening within the wood’s pores. This is a prerequisite to enable the oil-finished hardwood floor to withstand the strain of everyday use. Due to the special construction of the oil-finished surface, dirt can easily be removed. So you don’t have to worry if drinks are split or you’ve got pets. The surface is water-repellent, insensitive to dirt, easy-care, wipe-resistant and resistant to spots (in accordance with DIN 68861)

White Oil
If you’re after a beautiful antiquing effect then a white oiled floor is for you. Apply the oil and get the look which has grown increasingly popular. The white pigment also protects the wood from discolouration.

Brushed & Oiled
Brushing the surface highlights the natural structure of the grain, forming additional texture. Wood plank which has been brushed and oiled with pigments in oil. The result is very market growth-rings, grey or brown.

White Matt Lacquer
Protect Ultra White Matt Lacquer provides the same durable surface as Protect Ultra but with a matt look, just like an oiled hardwood flooring. Stonewashed oiled - Oak Plank which has been brushed and oiled with pigments in oil. The result is very market growth-rings, grey or brown. Stone-washed oak planks can also be ordered unfinished.

Stained Oak
Dark brown and reddish tinted exotic woods are the trend. Current market surveys forecast a 20% increase in demand this year. But, the natural resources for the production of plank are limited. Floorell, being a company which acts for the good of the environment can now offer three new stained oak floors which present both an elegant and environmentally friendly alternative.

2.8. Wood grade information

Spring/Nature Grade:
These floors are manufactured from a uniform and ordinary timber grade with slight variations in colour and pattern. Light or dark depending on the wood species, the colouring and overall appearance is harmonised.

Summer/Country Grade:
These floors are characterised by subtle variations in shade and pattern with small knots that may also be visible. They create a classic background which focuses on the rest of the decoration. If you are looking for a floor with limited variation, then this is the grade that you would like.

Autumn/Canyon/Rustic Grade
If you are determined for a more rustic expression you will definitely like this floor. Dramatic graining, knotted wood and greater colour variation makes this floor unquestionably natural and bold.

Flair
The wood structure and colours are well balanced do give a harmonious overall effect. It has a quite and well-balanced appearance. It goes well with contemporary designs.

Rustica
The wood shows its full character with its lively structure, grain and colour but not especially knotty. It suits well with classic designs.

Finale (mix)
Wood as nature intended it but extreme variations, knots and sapwood are selected out of the floor.

2.9. Wood install information

Tongue & Groove (T&G)
T&G system is a traditionally used joint system in which the planks or wooden floor needs to be glued to secure a solid joint. The tongue part of the pairing is used to fasten the flooring to the substrate. The work is most quickly achieved with a floor nailer. Flooring nailers, which both force boards tightly together and drive a fastener, called a cleat, are often used in blind nailing applications. The nails are hidden in the T&G joint. Glue-down installations are an ideal way of fitting solid wood onto a concrete substrate

Click Systems: Uniclick (BOEN) & Click’n Fix Plus (GRUNDORF)
Click systems enables wood flooring to be installed without using any glue to stick tongues & grooves together. They simply are clicked together, resulting in no damages at the edges, and no play or open joints. Once clicked together, the flooring then basically floats, not needing anything to secure the flooring onto the subfloor. Grundorf’s Click’n Fix Plus has a locking system; a plastic strip at the header spings back and locks the header securely in its place.

Wood flooring finish - grade -install information is also available in Adobe PDF.

3.1. Laminate Installation

At Floorell we like to be as helpful as possible, that’s why we’ve put together this useful guide to help you to install your laminate floor. Before your laminate floor even arrives it will help if you can get ready. Being prepared is always good.

First if all, you’re going to need some help. We strongly recommend get a professional to install your laminate floor. That is unless you really, really want to do it yourself.

General Info….
All our laminate flooring actually comes with their own set of instructions, but just in case you lose them or want to have a go yourself, here’s some general information that will work with many types of laminate.

Laminate floors use what is known as a ‘floating floor’ installation; which means, the planks simply lay on top of the floor without being adhered to the subfloor and are only adhered to each other on the edges.

Side seams are either glued together or joined using a “glueless” installation where the planks tightly interlock together. Both installations are considered floating floors.

First things first…
Get on your hands and knees and have a good look around the subfloor. Look out for any imperfections – meaning any flaws or ridges that may cause problems. Clean your floor and then leave your laminate to acclimatize to the room you intend to install it in.

Underlayment…
The installers now put down an underlayment directly over your subfloor. Sometimes two underlayment layers are fitted first. The first layer is installed to specifically act as a moisture barrier while the second layer provides a sound barrier and enhances your flooring’s performance. The underlayment is typically rolled out and taped together at the seams. Installers will cut the pieces of underlayment where needed with a precision utility knife to make a perfect fit.

Now you can begin…
Begin in the left corner of the area and leave a minimum 1/4 space between the flooring and the perimeter walls. It’s important to leave that gap because the laminate requires space around the edges of the room to expand or contract. Give your laminate the space it needs to breathe. If you don’t or if the floor is touching or too close to a wall, it can buckle in the middle. Check that your installer is using spacers as they work, to ensure the accuracy of this perimeter space. They should be using one spacer for each square foot. Once your floor is fully installed they remove the spacers and cover the perimeter gap with quarter round trim or a wall base.

Glue less?
Many laminates today don’t require glue for the installation. The glueless laminates are so easy to install. You simply put down an underlayment and the planks of laminate interlock to each other one at a time. If something goes wrong during installation, your floor can be dismantled plank by plank and re-built. Perfect for people having a go at it themselves. If one of the panels gets damaged after installation, your entire floor can be removed, the damaged plank replaced, and the floor can be put back together again plank by plank.

Most of Floorell’s range of laminate requires no tools at all for installation, but our ‘Dimension’ range will require a tapping block. Most of Floorell’s range of laminate requires no tools at all for installation, but our ‘Dimension’ range will require a tapping block.

The last bit…
To finish your floor, you can then add mouldings to cover the perimeter gap and install any additional transition trim pieces needed in doorways or where the laminate meets a different type of flooring.
Custom finished moldings and trim will give your laminate flooring a beautiful, finished look. They are all coordinated to match or accentuate the design of your floor. It’s all part of a professional installation.

Laminate installation & more about laminate is available in Adobe PDF.

3.2. How to care for your laminate floors

Great news – Floorell’s laminate floors come already sealed and ready for use. So once you’ve installed them, they will be protected from anything your life will throw at it. However, to make sure you get a lifetime of pleasure from your new flooring it’s important that you know how to care for it. So here are a few general tips and rules to help you look after your floor:

Do…

• Attach felt gliders to chairs and furniture, it will help protect your floor against scratches and impressions

• Clean with the right materials - we recommend our range of special care products for cleaning and maintenance. They have been designed to work in harmony with the floor and they safeguard the warranty.

• Floor mats and floor coverings help to stop a build up of dirt especially in entrance areas

• Remove loose dirt and sand immediately with a vacuum cleaner, mop, soft brush or dust cloth.

• Use a humidifier. Wooden based floors need a healthy room climate, i.e. a temperature of about 20 degrees (C) and a relative air humidity of 50-60%. If the humidity is too low, gaps and cracks can occur and if it is too high, your floors can swell or arch.

Don’t…

• Don’t let people wear damaged shoe heels/nails and stiletto heels on the floor

• Don’t leave standing water on the floor – mop up any spills immediately

• Avoid heavy point weights such as pianos and stiletto heals – they may mark the floor

• Many other cleaning agents such as soft soap, hard soap or scouring agent a or furniture polishes or other film-forming agents attack the surface of the laminate and may destroy it- so don’t use them

Laminate Flooring Care

• Always use soft brushes to avoid scratch marks, or a vacuum cleaner works well to remove dirt

• Always wipe lengthways along the floor planks with a well-wrung out nearly dry cloth

• Always keep your floor dirt free with a quick sweep or vacuum. On floors subject to light use this is usually necessary about every 2 weeks, on floors with medium use about once a week and daily on floors subject to heavy use

• Always use well wrung-out nearly dry cloth, a wet floor is a bad floor

• Always follow the mixing ratio on the bottle if using cleaning solution

How to remove stains

Remove stuck-on stains like candle wax and chewing with a soft plastic scraper, after allowing them to harden

Stubborn stains, caused by fruit, milk, wine, nail varnish, ballpoint pens, can be cleaned off with our recommended cleaners (just ask one of Sales Team when you place your order). Always use well wrung-out nearly dry cloth.

Laminate flooring care information is also available in Adobe PDF.