1. Natural Stone

1.1. How long will my natural stone floor last?

1.2. Is my sample good to go by?

1.3. How can I ensure I get the look I want?

1.4. How will the colour vary?

1.5. How is fixing natural stone tiles different to fixing porcelain tiles?

1.6. Do I need to seal my natural stone?

2. Wood Flooring

2.1. I have concrete slab floor. Can I install a solid wood floor over it?

2.2. Can you recommend a wood floor that can be installed over a concrete slab?

2.3. What about installing a hardwood floor over an existing vinyl floor?

2.4. How do I remove scratches from my wood floor?

2.5. I have pets. Can I install a hardwood floor?

2.6. Can an engineered wood floor be refinished?

2.7. Can I use throw rugs on my hardwood floor?

2.8. How do we stop a wood floor from gapping?

2.9. What should I use under furniture legs?

1. Natural Stone

1.1. How long will my natural stone floor last?

If it’s installed and cared for properly it should last the lifetime of a house. Stone is one of the most durable of all floorings-when properly installed. Its toughness combined with the natural beauty of stone makes it the material of choice where quality and character are important.

1.2. Is my sample good to go by?

Samples are a great way of giving you a rough idea of how thick the stone will be and to give you a taste of what’s to come. But stone is a product of nature, and variations in colour and characteristics are the elements that let every installation be unique. No one sample can indicate all the possible permutations that may be present in a stone. All the tiles featured in this brochure have been selected from a typical range of each type, but it would not be possible to exhibit the full diversity. For large projects, it is highly recommended you ask for an array of samples.

1.3. How can I ensure I get the look I want?

Blending’s a great way to have a good look at your floor before it’s installed. The installer must have an understanding of blending requirements or special patterns as part of the job. In addition it is practical to consider wastage on each project before ordering, for instance minor damage to some stones which may occur in transportation or during site handling, site cutting and grading. Under normal circumstances, 10% should be allowed for that purpose. Whilst sorting tiles to ensure suitable blending, normal practice calls for segregation of tiles with minor damages or some unusual markings. They can be used where cut tiles are required, or in less visible locations.

1.4. How will the colour vary?

Stone tiles are always packed in wet conditions at the factory and cannot properly dry out until unpacked; they will lighten in colour as they dry. It is therefore quintessential that all tiles are completely dry prior to installation to be able to assess any colour variation present. To check this, it may be necessary to place a tile in front of a direct heat source to see the true colour of the stone when it is totally dry.

1.5. How is fixing natural stone tiles different to fixing porcelain tiles?

In general, the fixing of natural stones employs similar techniques and materials to those used for fixing ceramic tiling. Natural stones, however, possess specific properties that need to be taken into consideration when fixed using adhesives. Please refer to your tiler or give us a call if you need technical advise.

1.6 Do I need to seal my natural stone?

Yes. All natural stone needs to be sealed. By sealing stone you are making sure that liquid doesn’t seep into the stone and stain it. However, there are many different types of sealant on the market. A key fact to remember when choosing one is that natural stone must be allowed to breathe. To ensure that your natural stone remains looking good, the crystals that it is made from, must be able to interact with the air. All the sealants we provide are designed to work in harmony with our natural stone and help to promote its wellbeing. Don’t forget to ask our Sales Team to add a bottle to your order.

2. Wood Flooring

2.1. I have concrete slab floor. Can I install a solid wood floor over it?

We do not recommend installation of solid wood flooring over a concrete slab floor. However, there have been successful installations of solid wood flooring installed over dry, concrete slabs, but you have to do the following: Make sure a plastic barrier is set over the slab and taped at all seams. Then ensure a type of moisture-resistant wood sub floor (marine plywood) is built on top of the plastic film. Then nail the flooring to the wood sub floor. If you have no other choice, then make sure you consult with the manufacturer as to their recommendations. Doing this may make your warranty void. Or, alternatively Sika AcouBond. It’s a new synthetic underlayment that may allow for installing solid wood flooring over a dry slab. But please check with the manufacturer of the wood floor to see if they will warranty this type of installation and what their recommended installation procedures are.

2.2. Can you recommend a wood floor that can be installed over a concrete slab?

Most engineered and long strip engineered plank floors can now be used over a concrete slab. However, most manufacturers do not recommend using solid wood floors over a slab. Engineered planks and strip wood floors can be glued directly to a clean, dry, well-cured concrete slab. Some engineered wood floors can be glued at the tongue and grooves and then allowed to be floated over a special padding that is laid over the concrete slab. Long strip engineered planks can be floated over the slab with padding underneath. There are some new "hybrid" engineered floors that can be floated over a concrete slab and come with a click (glueless) tongue and groove locking system.

Note: New concrete slabs need to be fully cured for at least 60 days. All wood planks should be acclimated for 24-48 hours prior to installation. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer's recommended installation procedures.

2.3. What about installing a hardwood floor over an existing vinyl floor?

To ensure your wooden floor retains it’s natural beauty here are a few cleaning tips to follow. We know that you won’t want to spend hours cleaning, so we’ve made them as quick and as simple as possible:

2.4. How do I remove scratches from my wood floor?

This really depends on the type of wood floor you have, the finish you have and how deep the scratches are in the top layer. For small minor scratches in a urethane finish you should be able to order a touch-up kit from the store you purchased the flooring from. Be sure to use the manufacturer's recommended finish products and test first by applying a small amount in an out of the way area. For deep scratches you will probably have to have a professional do a screen and recoat. This is where they use special sanding screens to lightly abrade the floor's finish to help the new urethane bond better to the existing finish. With some wood floors you may be able to just replace the damaged boards. It is best to leave the sand and recoat, or board replacement to a professional flooring installer, or refinisher.

2.5. I have pets. Can I install a hardwood floor?

Although many homeowners have pets, hardwood flooring is not designed for the abuse a dog or cat can cause on a floor. Urine may permanently discolor the finish of the wood floor and large dogs' claws will probably leave scratches in the finish. The type of wood floor you buy, the color and the finish will also be factor in how much punishment the floor's finish can withstand before showing scratches and excessive wear.

2.6. Can an engineered wood floor be refinished?

Some of the better quality engineered wood floors have a 1/8" thick finish layer and can be sanded and refinished 1 or maybe 2 times. The sanding and refinishing of an engineered wood floor is best done by an experienced hardwood flooring refinisher. If you have heat vents in your floor you can remove a heat cover to get a side view of your wood floor. This will help you check to see how thick you finish layer is. Always consult with the manufacturer to see if the recommend sanding and refinishing of the engineered wood floors.

2.7. Can I use throw rugs on my hardwood floor?

Before using any throw rugs on your wood floor you should know the type of finish you have on the floor. All rugs should be non-staining, meaning the colored dyes will not bleed. Generally in the presence of moisture, some dyes used in rugs may bleed through onto your floor and discolor the wood floors surface. Also, be sure the rug does not have a rough backing material that may scratch the surface of the floor. Clean dirt and debris from under the rug regularly. To prevent possible shading of the wood underneath the rug, move the rug occasionally.

2.8. How do we stop a wood floor from gapping?

Gapping in solid wood floors cannot be stopped completely. Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. Using a humidifier during the heating months may help reduce the amount of gapping in solid wood floors. Also, some wood species may gap expand and contract less than others. Engineered wood floors are much more dimensionally stable than solid wood floors and will show little or no gaps between planks.

2.9. What should I use under furniture legs?

Most flooring stores carry the recommended felt pads for using under chair legs and other furniture. The felt pads come in various sizes. Some pads just stick on the bottom of the legs and others need to be nailed on. Never hit the pads directly with a hammer. Follow the directions provided with the pads. Check and clean the pads often to prevent debris, dirt and small particles from being trapped in the pad, which may cause scratches in the wood floor's finish.

3. Porcelain Tiles

3.1. How hard are porcelain tiles compared to other natural stone tiles on the market?

Porcelain tiles are around 30% stronger than natural stone tiles on the market meaning less scratches, chipped tiles and broken tiles.

3.2. Are porcelain tiles less maintenance and cheaper to lay compared to other tiles?

Porcelain tiles are virtually maintenance free. Porcelain tiles can be laid straight away as they don't need any preparation. The conclusion is porcelain tiles are a far cheaper solution to the consumer as you are only paying for laying time and not preparation as your tiler can lay more m2 a day in porcelain compared to marble. Once down porcelain tiles take no taking care of and no long term maintenance as natural stone tiles does.

3.3. Are porcelain tiles environmentally friendly?

Porcelain tiles are environmentally friendly due to the use of natural products such as clay and the manufacturing process. The manufacturing process virtually generates no byproducts and the waste is recycled back into the manufacturing process for the next batch of tiles.

3.4. Does water and frost damage porcelain tiles?

Porcelain tiles can be used in outdoor areas because of it's durability in colder climates which are frosty. Water does not penetrate porcelain due to its low absorption at 0.5% so porcelain is fantastic in bathrooms and kitchens. Porcelain does not stain so it's an ideal low maintenance product.

3.5. Is porcelain resistant to abrasion as is it clean surface compared to other flooring?

Porcelain tiles are fantastic in high traffic areas and will not need to be treated against scratches and abrasions. Sometimes porcelain might get aluminum burns into the tiles from a chair dragged across the floor leaving what looks like a scratch. The solution to a burn from metals which looks like a scratch it acid and wire wool, after a little scrubbing the scratch will disappear leaving the tile as good as new. Porcelain is resistant to chemicals, cleaning agent’s alkalis, acids and bacteria making porcelain tiled floors very hygienic.

3.6. Can large size porcelain tiles be manufactured?

They way porcelain tiles are manufactured allows tiles in sizes such as 1000mm x 1000m 1200mm x 1000mm and even up to 2000mm x 1000mm in commercial places. These tiles are becoming more popular due to contemporary living where people want big tiles to make rooms look more spacious and less grout lines.