Going for a relaxed look?

Then why not try travertine tiles- they are naturally pitted and weathered surfaces gives an attractive, worn in look that’s perfect to create a laid back kitchen or sitting area. Ivory brushed and unfilled travertine tiles from £26.00per sqm inc VAT.

Or why not opt for an easy to clean option? - like dark slate tiles that are great for hiding the dirt - great if you’ve got kids or pets. These Black Imperial slate tiles are available from only £15.99 per m2 inc VAT.

If you’ve got a large room to fill, create warmth with large-scale tiles in rich tones. These Jerusalem Desert Creme limestone tiles are available from only £37.00 per sqm inc VAT.

Add a touch of class with these white marble tiles that never fail to impress -just ask for Caria White Tumbled Marble tiles from only £ 27.00 per m2 inc VAT.

For more inspiring ideas visit our website at www.floorell.co.uk

Using the right size grout line is important for technical reasons. If you are using a natural stone tile (such as travertine, marble or slate) and you use large grout lines, the tile can sometimes end up looking fake. We actually recommend that your set natural stone tiles with a 1/16″ grout line.  If you’re installing porcelain, or have tiles that are similar then try using smaller grout lines - they’ll look so much better.

Most people leave the size of the grout line up to the fitter, but we feel you should definitely speak to them beforehand, just so you’re not disappointed with the outcome. The general rules are that larger grout lines are used for tiles with less than perfect edges such as natural stone tiles, and smaller ones used for porcelain and uniform tiles. But each installer has their own unique style as well so make sure you discuss your needs with them beforehand.

General guidelines for grouting:

• Natural stone tile (such as Travertine, marble, slate) - 1/16″ or 1/8″
• Tile with a irregular shaped edge 16″ or 1/8″
• Common tile (Porcelain) - 3/16″, 1/4″ (safest bet) up to 3/8″ or 1/2″

Two different types of grout

There are two different types of grout -sanded and unsanded. Sanded grout is used in joints that are 1/8″ or larger and unsanded grout (natural stone tiles) is used in joints that are 1/8″ or larger.

Weber Stoneset Flexible SP Tile Grout £14.00 inc VAT

Stoneset flexible SP grout is a wide-joint, cement-based, polymer-modified tile grout for interior and exterior use in situations where some ovement or vibration is expected. It grouts natural stones and ceramic, porcelain, quarry and terracotta tiles.

Weber Stoneset Fine Wall & Floor Tile Grout £ 8.50 inc VAT

Stoneset fine wall and floor grout is a water-repellent, polymer-modified grout for natural stone, ceramic, porcelain and mosaic tiles where some movement or vibration is expected. Suitable for both interior and exterior use, at joint widths up to 10 mm.

 A great example of how white grout can add contrast to dark slate tiles.

An example of how thin grouting lines give a smooth appearnace to these porcelain tiles.

 An example of very thin lines of grout with marble tiles - you can hardly see the lines at all, giving an overall classy effect.

These grouting ideas were bought to your by Floorell, for more information visit www.floorell.co.uk 

1. It’s a natural choice.

Wood is a natural product. Its straight from Mother Nature which means it’s beautiful to look at, comfortable to walk on, creates an ambience that lasts a long time. It is also non-allergenic, which in this day and age is often a good reason to fit it. Wood is renewable, unlike plastics and many other modern materials, so when it is replaced, one day in the future, it completes the circle of life and is reunited with Mother Nature.

1. Wood gets better with age.

Unlike humans, wood actually looks better rover time. All wood changes colour. That’s due to its interaction with the environment, like its exposure to sunlight. Some species darken quickly, while other changes less dramatically.

1. Smart floors are kinder to nature

A modern floor, such as engineered flooring is made up on the multi-layer principle. It makes it more stable and more likely to stay level even during the dramatic changes in weather that we have been witnessing lately. A solid wood floor, by its nature will crack and warp easily. Engineered floors make good use of natural resources without compromising its lifespan.

     4. Its warm

Under floor heating works well with wooden floors that have been locked in and fitted properly. It also means that the floor stays flat and that gaps will never appear in between the planks. We have a full range of under floor heating systems. Just ask our Sales Team about them when you place your order.

5. You can feel it.

Maintaining a wooden floor takes some effort The surface treatment of the wood must be strong enough to withstand daily wear and tear, yet sufficiently thin and transparent that you can see and experience the feeling of nature. We have a full range of lacquers that can be applied thinly, which will help to retain the character of the wood. Some wooden floors have a layer of lacquer so thick that the floor feels plastic and artificial. If you want to fell even more texture, you can choose a floor with a matt lacquer or natural oil finish.

     6. Who will use the floor?

The last and final thing to consider is who will use the floor? Is it mainly adults, or will there be babies crawling around on it? What about pets? Where will it be installed? Bedroom? Kitchen? The hardness of the wood can be a crucial practical factor when you make your selection. There are many types of wood that look the same but they vary greatly in hardness. When choosing your wooden flooring you may find it useful to discuss your needs with our Sales Team who will be happy to help you choose the right type of wood for your room, your situation and your lifestyle.

Q. A FRIEND OF MINE HAS A RED WINE STAIN ON A WHITE MARBLE WORK TOP WHICH IS PORUS.DOES ANYONE KNOW THE BEST WAY TO CLEAN IT UP ?

Gerry

A. Hi Gerry,

Red wine on a white marble work top isn’t good. As marble is porous the stain would have sunk into the stone. The quicker you take action the better. Here are a few ideas for you to try.

 There’s a great stain remover called FILA SR/95 available from: www.filachim.com

It removes coloured organic stains like soft drinks and coffee. It actually penetrates the stone and goes deeper than nay other cleaning product. It has been specially designed to remove stains from marble and natural stones. And it won’t damage the finish on the rest of the marble work top. See the bottle for directions of use.

They sell a range of great solutions including products that can be used in an emergency, so they may be worth a visit. In fact, tell your friend they should definitely keep some of this in their cupboard, to help with stains next time:

http://www.filamarblerestorer.com/eng/

 Or why not try?

 Hg Stain Colour Remover 500ml for £ 8.99 including VAT available from www.diytools.co.uk

 HG marble stain colour remover easily removes all kinds of coloured liquid stains such as coffee, tea, fizzy drink and red wine stains from marble, travertine or terrazzo.

Apparently you just spray the surface area well. Then allow ten minutes for the product to work in, and then remove with a sponge or hot water. Sounds easy enough.

There are a lot of companies now that specialize in removing stains, try The Marble Master on: 0845 2997333 or the Stone Specialists on: 0845 652 4111. They’ll give you a good idea of the cost and will discuss your options. Or look them up in your local yellow pages.

 Please be aware we highly recommend you talk to a specialist stain remover before trying any of our recommendations.

Hope this helps

Floorell

Imperial Black Riven Slate Tiles

These black slate tiles are rich in texture and depth. Use them to create a great talking point as a floor or they can make a perfect wall feature. These slate tiles have a riven finish, helping to achieve a unique looking floor.

Price: £13.99 per meter squared

 Rust Multicolour Riven Slate Tiles

These slate tiles are unique in every sense of the word. They boast a rich mix of colours including orange, gold and blue and when installed can create an eccentric feel. The tiles vary extensively in background colour, veining and movement and have a riven finish.

Price: £13.99 per meter squared

 Oyster Quartzite Riven Slate Tiles

These slate tiles have a rich oyster colour and can have a subtle impact on a room. An easy and gorgeous way to add colour and depth to an otherwise neutral room.

Price: £23.00 per meter squared

 Woodland Green Riven Slate Tiles

These slate tiles have a dull green grey colour and create a great texture and visual appeal for your flooring. With their uneven texture and colour they are perfect for adding a rustic look to a room. 

£20.00 per meter squared

For more great slate take a look at www.floorell.co.uk

 Getting ready

Let’s get off to the right start. At least 3 days before installation you should store/lay the solid wood planks wrapped in foil in the centre of the room. The room must be air-conditioned/heated/ dry (to approx. 20degress (C) and approx. 60% relative air humidity). This helps it to acclimatize to your room. It means you’re less likely to get problems later on, so it’s well worth the effort. Take the solid wood planks out of the sealed wrapping just before you want to install it. Carry out installation work only under the room climate conditions stated above.

It’s not a good idea to fit solid wood planks with under floor heating systems and not at all in damp rooms such as saunas and bathrooms. We don’t recommend it, and it’s not covered in our warranty, but if you do really, really want under floor heating then please ask our Sales Team for information on how to best install and use your flooring.

Before you begin, check all the planks to make sure you are happy with them. If use solid wood planks which are visibly defective or damaged, we can not be held responsible if you have laid them.

Get you Sub-floors ready for installation:

Your sub-floors important. Before use Floorell’s solid wood planks, the sub-floor must be:

• It must be dry (cement floor under 2% CM, anhydrite floor and anhydrite flow floor under 0.5% CM).
• Cracks in the wash floor must be sealed before installation. The underlying floor must be permanently dry and protected against moisture. If this requirement is not met, the planks can swell, shrink and warp. Please ask for our liquid moisture barrier - just ask our Sales Team for it.
• The underlying floor must be level (increased requirement, indentations must not be greater than 2mm per linear meter). If required, the sub-floor has to be levelled with high grade levelling compound or appropriately sanded.
• The sub-floor must be hard. When the sub-floor is too soft, it is not possible to guarantee the stability of the installed surface.
• The sub-floor must be clean, old adhesives must be completely removed and other grime such as paints and grease must be completely removed. We recommend you vacuum the entire area.

Let’s get installing

So now you’ve done all the preparation, it’s time to start installing. You must remember that wood is a natural product with natural differences in colour, typical characteristics, grains and properties.

To ensure you get the look you want, it’s a good idea to open all the packs and choose planks from several packs to create a uniform pattern in the installed surface.

Leave the right amount of spacing - Planks must be installed with a sufficient expansion gap of 15mm to the walls and all other upright building components (door casings, heating radiators pipes, offsets etc). Solid wood planks need space for setting because solid wood has the tendency to shrink/swell depending on the humidity of the air. When the wood swells, the floor can be pushed upwards if not enough space is left for expansion of the sides.

If you want to install the wood in very large rooms, expansion joints must be placed along the planks from 10m and across the planks from 6m. Expansion joints in front of raised parts (e.g. steps) are covered with transition and finishing profiles.

The degree to which the solid wood floor sets depends on the room climate, i.e. on the humidity of the air. By maintaining a room climate which is also healthy for people, (avoiding overheating, airing regularly, keeping house plants, we recommend installing a humidifier), the reaction of the floor can be limited.

An optimum room climate is given at a relative air humidity of 50%-60% and a room temperature of 20 degrees (C). This applies particularly to heating periods and in the summer. Long periods of dryness may lead to the formation of gaps.

Important things you need to know

Due to their size, solid wood planks can vary slightly in dimension. This is not a reason for complaint but is considered a typical characteristic of solid wood planks. Remove wedge spacers after installation is finished and don’t forget to attach skirting profiles to cover the required remaining expansion joints. They must be connected only to the wall and not to the floor. Fill in visible expansion joints with joining filler or cover with floor profiles.

We recommend and point out that solid wood planks are alive and have a natural appearance. Their individual character (e.g. knots, sapwoods, shades of colour) as well as their physical properties with regards to changes in temperature (e.g. hair cracks caused by dryness) can still lead to slight deviations from the specified grades despite the meticulously conducted tests.

Off-cuts continually needed for endless and random installations should be deliberately/ selectively chosen and defects that are not desired on the plank should therefore be removed. These off-cuts can then be used either at the beginning or at the end of a row of planks. Taking the recommended procedure into consideration, a professional installer should allow for a waste quantity of 5%.

Our installation instructions are based on extensive experience but do not claim to have gone into all our application possibilities and particularities. They serve as advice based on the assumption that professional installers possess the required installation know-how. In case of doubt, we recommend you contact us. Binding information must be given in writing. Please cover the floor with a breathable protective cover in case there is building work going on after you finished installation.

Caring for and maintaining your floor

After all that hard work, you want to make sure you keep your floor looking great. After the installation of our surface treated solid wood planks (oil treated or lacquered) the floor must be treated with our care and maintenance products suited and recommended for this. The basics for correct treatment of the floor are our corresponding care and maintenance instructions for oil-treated or lacquered surfaces.

After installation of our untreated solid wood planks, the professional installer will sand treat the solid wood planks with oil or lacquer as arranged with you.

Our Sales Team will also be able to tell which products are suited for the care and maintenance of your particular flooring. You can see the full range on our website, as well great top tips on how to keep your floor looking great.

Checklist of tools you’ll need

Before you begin, its’ useful to have the following things handy.

• Tools
• Spirit level
• Hammer (min. 1,000gr.)
• Tapping block
• Drill/cordless electric screwdriver
• Pencil
• Dimpling punch (for nails)
• Compass saw, hand saw, circular saw if required
• Measuring rod or tape
• Installation rod
• Angle
• Plumb line
• Suitable flat head nails or suitable countersunk head screws
• Wedge spacers
• Drill with suitable countersunk head

Accessories

• PE Film or liquid moisture barrier
• Profiles (transition, finishing, adapter)
• Radiator pipe trims
• Skirting
• Oil (natural, white)
• Stain remover
• Intensive cleaner
• Sealing lacquer
• Wood floor cleaner (soap)
• Sika Bond filler
• Sika Bond T 54 or T 52. No liquid battens

(Separate section - installing wooden flooring)

Professional Installation with Elastion

Suitable for: Professional installation of solid wood planks on any level, any hard dry sub-floors such as cement floors, poured asphalt, installation boards (chipboards, OSB boards - at least 22mm thick) and old planked floors, PVC, linoleum, stone and tile floors - as flooring installation on Elastion only.

1. Preparation of the sub-floor

Generally a moisture measurement must be carried out on all mineral sub-floors. The following residual moisture of the cement floors must not exceed:

1.  
   • Cement floor  below 2.0%CM
   • Anhydrite floor below 0.5%CM

Uneven sub floors (over 2mm per running meter) must be levelled out with a levelling compound.

1. Installation

If you’re installing solid wood planks in a large room, expansion joints must be placed along the planks from 10m and across the planks from 6m. Expansion joints in doorways or in front of raised parts (e.g. steps) are covered with transition and finishing profiles.

Prior to installation on cement or stone floors, a moisture barrier (PE Film 0.2 mm) or a vapour barrier (PE Film from 1.2mm, especially on floors without a basement) must be laid out as protection against moisture. The underlay must stand at least 30mm to the walls. The joints of the moisture barrier must overlay by at least 200mm and be taped to each other. PE film must not be installed on wooden sub-floors. Please make sure that no moisture can affect the new floor by checking the construction of the underlying structure.

The Elastilon mat is unrolled at right angles to the direction of the installation of the planks in sheets next to each other with the protective film upwards. At the wall where you begin installation, the protective film on the individual sheets must first be pulled back approx. 40cm and loosely overlapped/ folded back doubly back towards the centre of the room (Fig 1.).

Now cut off the Elastion strip exposed with the glue layer (Fig 2.), Push the sheet again up to the wall and unroll the Elastion backwards to the opposite wall. Cut it to the required length and begin with the next sheet again as described above. Please make sure that the sheets do not overlap.

Before installation is started, it is required to check whether the walls which finish along the lengths of the planks are straight. If they are not straight, the longitudinal courses of the walls must be transferred to the planks (distance to the wall always 15mm) and the planks must be re-sawed accordingly.

Measure the room depth, if the width of the last plank is under 5cm, then distribute the available residual measure evenly among the first and last row of planks. Now you can start installation. Now you can begin to lay out the first two rows of planks on the loose overlap (Fig 3.). The first row of planks is first fitted into place with the groove towards the wall. The minimum length of the end piece must not be less than 200mm and the distance between the end joints must not be smaller than 400mm.

The expansion gap of the first row of planks form the wall (15mm) is secured with wedge spacers with are removed after installation. The last, sawed to size plank is fitted with an installation iron. The first row of planks is aligned straight and secured on the side along its length with wedge spacers to prevent slipping.

Start the installation of the second row with the off-cut of the first row. With the aid of a tapping block, the following rows of planks are tapped with their groove into the corresponding tongue of the first plank. After the first two rows are in position with spacers on the doubly folded back protective film, the film below is pulled from underneath the boards (Fig 4.).

Attention:

Make sure the film is not pulled off so that the glue layer in front of the second row of planks is exposed.

(If the planks are glued prematurely during insertion, the following planks can not be tapped tightly into each other because bits of glue left sticking on, residual foam or the mat folding up can prevent the light interlocking of the planks).

The two rows now lie tightly in the glue layer of the Elastion mat.

The rest of installation is carried out as described above. It is possible to lay out one or several rows which are fixed permanently on the Elastion mat before removing the protective film.

To obtain a tight surface, the planks should be clamped with tensioning belts before gluing them on the Elastion (fig 5.). Also stretching the Elastion at the same time as pulling the protective film is possible.

It is important to check whether the alignment is straight regularly.

The last row of planks, which is fitted using an installation iron, is tensioned my hand or belts, the protective film is pulled out completely. Now the installation of the floor is finished.

Screwing or Nailing down

Suitable for: Professional installation of solid wood planks on floor joists, installation boards and existing planked floors

Note: 20mm solids only can be installed on floor joists.

1. Preparation of the underlying structure

Floor joists, installations boards and old planked floors can be used as an underlying structure. Put a moisture barrier (PE film 0.2mm) or a vapour barrier (PE film from 1.2mm, especially where there is no basement) under the floor joints or installation boards and make sure that the existing plank flooring has this construction already. Do not put the PE film on top of the exiting wooden flooring, but always make sure that no moisture can affect the new floor by checking the construction of the underlying structure. Use dried floor joists (approx. 10% wood moisture) for the base structure. Appropriate standard formats are: 40×60mm, 60×80mm or 80×100m. The floor joists of up to an installation height of 60mm are fixed to the sub-floor. The floor joists above 60mm are installed floating on sound-damping strips, e.g coconut fibre damping strips or 2mm roll cork), that can be easily fixed to the underside and front of the floor joists with a stapler or glue. Uneven sub-floors (over 2mm per 1.00m) must be levelled out by lining the base construction. The spacing of the floor joists must not exceed 500mm. the floor joists should never be buffed, but laid out next to each other overlapping by approx. 200mm. the cavity between the floor joists is filled with a suitable filling/insulation. A cellulose filling is recommendable here. When a granular filling is selected, the use of protective cardboard is recommended. The top edges of the ends of the planks must not lie on the floor joists. The joint of the ends of two planks between two floor joists should however be secured in the next row by a continuous plank (top edge offset at least 400mm).

1. Installation

Should you want to install cut solid wood planks in large rooms, expansion joints must be placed along the planks from 10m and across the planks from 6m. Expansion joints in doorways or in front of raised parts (e.g. steps) are covered with transition and finishing profiles.

Before screwing or nailing down is started, it is required to check whether walls which finish along the lengths of the solid wood planks are straight. If they are not straight, the longitudinal courses of the walls must be transferred to the planks (distance to the wall always 15mm) and the planks must be re-sawed accordingly.

Measure the room depth, if the width of the last plank is less than 5cm, and then distribute the available residual measure evenly amongst the first and last row of planks. Now you can start screwing/nailing down.

The first row of planks is first fitted into place with the groove towards the wall. The minimum length of the end piece must not be less than 200mm and the distance between the end joints must not be smaller than 400mm. The gap of the first row of planks to the wall (15mm) is secured with wedge spacers which are removed after installation.

The last, sawed to size plank is fitted with an installation iron. The first row of planks is aligned straight with a plumb line and screwed into the floor joists/ installation boards/ old planked floors in the edge area (groove side) form above. Screw or nail down with suitable rust-free screws/nails at an angle of approx. 45 degrees. Start in the corner of the tongue and the board. For screwing we recommend pre-drilling the screw-holes with a 4mm drill and fixing them with 3.5 x 35mm countersunk screws. Start the installation of the second row with the off-cut of the first row. With the aid of a tapping block, the following rows of planks are tapped with their groove into the corresponding tongue of the first plank and secured by pressing during screwing/nailing down. The screws/nails are covered because the groove of the next plank is pushed over the tongue. It is important to check whether the alignment is straight regularly.

The last row of planks, which is fitted using an installation iron, is screwed down again, like the first row of planks, from above.

Full-gluing

Suitable for: Professional installation of solid wood planks on sub-floors such as cement or anhydrite floors, installation boards etc.

The development status achieved in adhesives technology for wood floors enables the reliable gluing of solid wood floors. Two advantages of gluing solid wood floors are:

• When elastic glues are sued the solid wood plank floor reacts to the static and dynamic strains which it is exposed to without essentially leaving its intended installation bed. The elastic glue gives the formation of solid wood planks the flexibility required for variations in temperature and humidity. An optimum climate is room temperature of approx. 20 degrees (C) at relative humidity of 50%-60%, which must be maintained.
• Gluing solid wood floors suggests itself particularly for sub-floors which do not allow any large installation heights for the underlying structures. Thus less time is required for installation than for conventional installation by screwing or nailing down. Therefore this method is perfect for renovations. All our solid wood floorings are suitable for full gluing.

1. Preparing the sub-floor with Primer

All cement floors must be sanded until the surface is hard and has a good grip. Afterwards the surface is cleaned thoroughly with an industrial vacuum cleaner until it is dust-free. SikoGrund-P can be used as a dust binder and wash primer for sub-floors such as anhydrite, cement floors, chipboards, concrete and dry screed. Siko Primer MB must, however be used as the primer for poured asphalt.

1. Levelling compound

The floor levelling compound Siko-Level-P must be used for smoothing and levelling uneven screeds. SikoLevel-P must only be used in conjunction with SikoBond-T52 or SikoBond-T54. Just ask our Sales Team for more information.

In case of other structural sub-floors, we recommend contacting the adhesives manufacturer directly.

1. Glue

We recommend SikoBond-T52 as 1-C-PV solvent free elastic glue for gluing solid wood planks made of tropical woods (oil-containing ingredients).

We recommend SikoBond-T54 as 1-C-PV low viscosity, elastic glue for gluing commercially available hard woods and pine woods.

These glues are solvent -free, elastic and have a low viscosity. The glue is applied with a toothed spatula.

1. Sikofloor 156

Liquid moisture barrier must be used as a moisture barrier.

Important:

Specified building expansion joints must be taken over and covered with a transition profile afterwards.

Installation of the planks

Before gluing, it is required to check whether the walls which finish along the lengths of the planks are straight. If they are not straight the longitudinal courses of the walls must be transferred to the planks (distance to the wall always 15mm) and the planks must be re-sawed accordingly.

Measure the room depth. If the width of the last plank is less than 5cm, then distribute the available residual measure evenly among the first and last row of planks. Now you can start gluing.

The first row of planks is first fitted into place with the groove towards the wall. The minimum length of the end piece must not be less than 200mm and the distance between the end joints must not be smaller than 400mm.

Apply the glue to the sub-floor evenly with the toothed spatula. Glue should be applied only to area of three plank widths. The gap of the first row of planks to the wall (15mm) is secured with wedge spacers which are removed after installation.

The planks are inserted into the adhesive bed and joined together with a tapping block. Additional glue must not be applied so that the shrink and swell behaviour of the individual planks is not restricted. The rows of planks are fixed at the ends with edge clamps/ wedge spacers.

Weigh down the first row of planks to ensure good adhesion to the sub-floor. The end and longitudinal edges of the planks must be checked for precisions as well as the straight alignment of the boards.

The last row of planks must be fitted with an appropriate installation iron. Allow the glue to dry completely for 2 days before you use or walk on the solid wood planks or put pieces of furniture and rugs on it.

Recommendation of Grundorf products over existing sub-floors

Laminates and Engineered floors

All existing non-wood based sub floors must incorporate an existing DPM

I not, then a two part damp proof epoxy must be applied. Two coats are recommended.

Should the sub floor have an existing DPM then a moisture reading should be taken of the sub floor as to British Standards to ensure that the existing DPM is indeed in good working order.

Further action must be taken if readings are suitable to ensure further protection to the Laminate flooring, this can be a poly membrane of 0.2 microns or a built in moisture barrier underlayment of which all joints must be taped. Laminate floors are designed for floating purposes only.

Correct underlay to be used is: PE FILM/FOAM COMBI UNDERLAY.

Wood based sub floors

It is important that all airbricks which ensure correct ventilation are in working order and no airbricks should be blocked, if so it is imperative that these are cleared.  A good quality underlayment (without a separate or integrated DPM) should be laid over the existing floorboards provided that these are in good condition and flat and all joints taped.

Correct underlay to be used is: FOAM INSULATION BOARD

Solid wood:

• 1) It is recommended that all concrete based sub floors have a two part epoxy DPM applied, even after testing; this is because a sub floor would have to read below 60%RH before installation, which would be very difficult to obtain. To avoid this situation a two part epoxy be applied and is now a recognized method by the trade in general.

• 2) Anhydrate screeds are normally associated with under floor heating and epoxy is not a recommended application. Drying this type of sub floor must be followed - ask our Sales Team for the information on wood and under floor heating.

• 3) With wood based sub floors, it is important that all airbricks which ensure correct ventilation are in working order. If they are blocked it is very important that you clear them, before you begin.

The floor boarded floor should have a reading not exceeding 12%m.c and action should be taken to ensure moisture does not get to the back of flooring. A Kraft paper (bitumen impregnated) should be laid over floorboards and joints. Overlap them and tape them using waterproof tape. Flooring must be laid at right angles to the floorboards or at a 45% angle. If you want the flooring to be laid in same direction of floorboards it is important that a minimum 12mm thickness plywood be overlaid -  any less and the nails will not have required holding power. Alternatively old floorboards can be uplifted and a minimum 18mm plywood be installed leaving 3mm gaps between joints and expansion of 12mm be left around all perimeters.  All plywood must be internal plywood kiln dried to a max of 12%m.c and again Kraft paper should then be overlaid onto this.

Gluing

Only one part urethane flexible adhesive must be used. Floor boarded areas must be overlaid using a min 9mm plywood and then flooring can be glued direct to this using the recommended trowel and coveridge. Flooring can be installed using this method - the same way as floorboards.

Please note that:

Solid wood flooring can only be installed using Nailing, Fully bonded using urethane adhesive, direct to joist or Elastilon. Floating of solid wood flooring is not recommended.

Why choose laminate?

Laminate is great. It’s cost effective, it looks great, it comes in a wide variety of colors and style and you can clean it without worrying about it too much. It’s perfect if you’ve got a full household with pets and kids running around as it’s more durable.

Oak Plank Laminate from only £ 8.29 per m2 inc VAT

Hard Maple 3 Strip from only £ 7.10 per m2 inc VAT.

Laminate is a manufactured product that stimulates the look of real wood and stone well.

With today’s technology you’ll be amazed at what you can find on the market. It’s hard to distinguish between the real deal and genuine premium flooring.

If you want the beauty of natural stone or real wood flooring but without any of the hassle or the hefty price tag, then laminate is for you.

Floorell’s range of laminate comes in many styles. We have the “plank” look or even stone and tile patterns that will give you the elegant look of tile, but without the concerns of grout cleaning or cracking tiles. Something you might want to consider.

And if you’ve always hated cleaning, the good news is that laminate flooring is stain resistant, it also doesn’t need to be varnished or waxed. And it’s unlikely to fade in direct sunlight, not that we have to worry about that too much in the UK!

Laminate floors offer many benefits to you and your home, including:

• Exceptional durability
• Easy to clean surface
• Superior stain resistance
• Superior fade resistance

• Install over many different types of subfloors

• Exceptional realism at affordable costs
• Easy to replace later on, if desired

How to install laminate flooring

Preparing for installation

At Floorell we like to be as helpful as possible, that’s why we’ve put together this useful guide to help you to install your laminate floor. Before your laminate floor even arrives it will help if you can get ready. Being prepared is always good.

First if all, you’re going to need some help. We strongly recommend get a professional to install your laminate floor. That is unless you really, really want to do it yourself.

General Info….

All our laminate flooring actually comes with their own set of instructions, but just in case you lose them or want to have a go yourself, here’s some general information that will work with many types of laminate.

Laminate floors use what is known as a ‘floating floor’ installation; which means, the planks simply lay on top of the floor without being adhered to the subfloor and are only adhered to each other on the edges.

Side seams are either glued together or joined using a “glueless” installation where the planks tightly interlock together. Both installations are considered floating floors.

First things first…

Get on your hands and knees and have a good look around the subfloor. Look out for any imperfections - meaning any flaws or ridges that may cause problems. Clean your floor and then leave your laminate to acclimatize to the room you intend to install it in.

Underlayment…

The installers now put down an underlayment directly over your subfloor.

Sometimes two underlayment layers are fitted first. The first layer is installed to specifically act as a moisture barrier while the second layer provides a sound barrier and enhances your flooring’s performance. The underlayment is typically rolled out and taped together at the seams.

Installers will cut the pieces of underlayment where needed with a precision utility knife to make a perfect fit.

Now you can begin…

Begin in the left corner of the area and leave a minimum ¼” space between the flooring and the perimeter walls. It’s important to leave that gap because the laminate requires space around the edges of the room to expand or contract. Give your laminate the space it needs to breathe. If you don’t or if the floor is touching or too close to a wall, it can buckle in the middle.

Check that your installer is using spacers as they work, to ensure the accuracy of this perimeter space.

They should be using one spacer for each square foot. Once your floor is fully installed they remove the spacers and cover the perimeter gap with quarter round trim or a wall base.

Glue less?

Many laminates today don’t require glue for the installation. The glueless laminates are so easy to install. You simply put down an underlayemt and the planks of laminate interlock to each other one at a time. If something goes wrong during installation, your floor can be dismantled plank by plank and re-built. Perfect for people having a go at it themselves.

If one of the panels gets damaged after installation, your entire floor can be removed, the damaged plank replaced, and the floor can be put back together again plank by plank.

Most of Floorell’s range of laminate requires no tools at all for installation, but our ‘Dimension’ range will require a tapping block. Most of Floorell’s range of laminate requires no tools at all for installation, but our ‘Dimension’ range will require a tapping

block.

If you would like to see an example of how to fit your flooring we recommend you watch the installation video on:  http://www.gruendorf.de/

It will take you through the whol process including:

1)Installation and accessories

2)Installation tips

3)Parquet floor avantgarde (for the engineered floors installation video)

Or

Laminate floor(for the laminate floors installation video)

The last bit…

To finish your floor, you can then add mouldings to cover the perimeter gap and install any additional transition trim pieces needed in doorways or where the laminate meets a different type of flooring.

Custom finished moldings and trim will give your laminate flooring a beautiful, finished look. They are all coordinated to match or accentuate the design of your floor. It’s all part of a professional installation.

FLOORELL’S TOP TIPS

The day before installation:

• Remove all your furniture and other objects from the areas where the installation will take place
• Regarding the disconnection and removal of appliances. Some installers may disconnect and move your electrical appliances and furniture for an additional charge

We recommend that the gas company or appliance company disconnect and reconnect all gas appliances, if your laminates going to be installed in the same room

• Arrange people to help you with the removal of heavy items such as pianos etc
• Be aware that the area of installation must be climate controlled (heated or air conditioned). Indoor humidity should be maintained between 45-65%

Out with the old…

Check with the person installing your laminate first, they may be able to remove and dispose of your current flooring for you. If you prefer to remove your present floor covering, do it at least one day before the arrival of your laminate product to allow for cleanup and floor preparation. If removing old carpet, please remove all materials, the tackless and the pad, including staples.

Don’t forget the trim…

In many cases, moldings and baseboards need to be removed for laminate installation. Your installer may do this but at an additional charge and they will probably not be responsible for damage or breakage due to dry or brittle wood. Painted baseboards, woodwork and paint may need retouching after the installation is complete.

Get your sub-floor right…

To make sure you get a perfect end result, your existing subfloor may need to be prepared to receive the laminate flooring, or a new subfloor may be required. You may need to get someone in to help you prepare the floor if it isn’t level. It’s your responsibility to make sure the subfloor is as clean and level as possible.

Doors…

Don’t forget your doors. When laminate flooring is installed, there’s always the possibility that the doors may not clear the new laminate and swing free. Some installers will remove doors in order to install the laminate and re-hang them if possible. They probably won’t shave or cut down doors to insure clearance. You may need to arrange for a qualified carpenter to provide this service after the installation of your new laminate floor.

Keep it clean…

Of course, installing new laminate flooring will produce waste. Often these materials are collected by your installer and disposed of for a fee. It’s up to you to discuss what you’re going to do with the left over laminate- please dispose of it in a sensible way.

During Installation

Make sure you’re there…

We recommend that you’re at home on the day your laminates being installed. That way you can make sure the right laminates being installed exactly how you want. Plus, a friendly cup of tea always goes down well and ensures a good job.

Keep it safe…

Please make sure that your children and pets are kept out of the work area on installation day. There will be many tools lying around so make sure everyone keeps their eyes wide open. Always think safety first.

The final step…

Once it has all been installed we recommend you take a good look around and make sure you’re happy with the job. Ask about the underlayment, the temperature in the room and how they recommend you care for the product. It’s a good way to make sure you’re fully satisfied with the job.

After installation

Fresh air…

We recommend you give your home a good airing for at least 48 to 72 hours after installation. It will help get rid of the dust.

Enjoy…

Now sit back and enjoy your new flooring- follow our cleaning advice as well. Then you can rest assured that you will be able to enjoy your laminate floor for a long, long time.

Read on…

1. Buy two ply toilet paper and pull the sheets apart (a top tip from many money saving  websites) ! Why not unravel the two play paper and wrap a whole other roll? That’s what I call a 2 for 1 offer!

2. Water down expensive branded shampoo - keep a bottle only half full and top it up with water. It will last you twice as long. As for conditioner - olive oil is meant to work best but may leave you with really greasy hair.

3. Washing up liquid, fabric conditioner etc can all also be watered down to make them last longer- not sure if you’ll have to use twice as much to get a good result though.

4. If you’re a soap lover, save all the last skanky bits of soap then after you’ve gathered about a handful of them, squash them together and make a new bar. I now see the true benefits of showergel.

5. Share a bath. Why waste water? Simply bathe together.

6. Cancel your gym membership - the credit crunch is the perfect excuse to get rid of it.

7. When you go out for dinner say you’re on a diet - it’s the perfect excuse to skip starter and dessert. Just drink water and have a salad. Much cheaper but far less enjoyable.

8. Instead of buying friends birthday presents/ wedding gifts make your own card then add details of how you have donated money to chairty on their behalf. After-all, it’s the thought that counts.

9. Don’t drive all the way to a ‘really cheap’ retail park just to stock up on good in bulk that you have no room for anyway. The petrol will cost you more than you are actually saving anyway.

10. Serve food on smaller plates. It will seem like your portions are bigger.

These top tips were bought to you by Floorell, www.floorell.co.uk 

…About Wood Floors

I have a concrete slab floor - Can I install a solid wood floor over it?

We do not recommend installation of solid wood flooring over a concrete slab floor. However, there have been successful installations of solid wood flooring installed over dry, concrete slabs, but you have to do the following: Make sure a plastic barrier is set over the slab and taped at all seams. Then ensure a type of moisture-resistant wood sub floor (marine plywood) is built on top of the plastic film. Then nail the flooring to the wood sub floor. If you have no other choice, then make sure you consult with the manufacturer as to their recommendations. Doing this may make your warranty void.

Or, alternatively Sika AcouBond. It’s a new synthetic underlayment that may allow for installing solid wood flooring over a dry slab. But please check with the manufacturer of the wood floor to see if they will warranty this type of installation and what their recommended installation procedures are.

Can you recommend a wood floor that can be installed over a concrete slab?

Most engineered and long strip engineered plank floors can now be used over a concrete slab. However, most manufacturers do not recommend using solid wood floors over a slab. Engineered planks and strip wood floors can be glued directly to a clean, dry, well-cured concrete slab. Some engineered wood floors can be glued at the tongue and grooves and then allowed to be floated over a special padding that is laid over the concrete slab. Long strip engineered planks can be floated over the slab with padding underneath. There are some new “hybrid” engineered floors that can be floated over a concrete slab and come with a click (glueless) tongue and groove locking system.

Note: New concrete slabs need to be fully cured for at least 60 days. All wood planks should be acclimated for 24-48 hours prior to installation. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer’s recommended installation procedures.

What about installing a hardwood floor over an existing vinyl floor?

It depends. Is the vinyl flooring is tightly secured to the sub floor? Does the vinyl flooring have a thick cushion attached? If the vinyl floor is thin and well secured to the sub floor you may be able to float a wood floor over it. In some situations you may be able nail/staple a wood floor over it also. If the wood sub floor is sound you may be able to nail a solid wood floor over the top. Be sure to get the manufacturer’s installation procedures for going over an existing vinyl floor and be sure to check if this type installation is warranted by the manufacturer.

How do I remove scratches from my wood floor?

This really depends on the type of wood floor you have, the finish you have and how deep the scratches are in the top layer. For small minor scratches in a urethane finish you should be able to order a touch-up kit from the store you purchased the flooring from. Be sure to use the manufacturer’s recommended finish products and test first by applying a small amount in an out of the way area. For deep scratches you will probably have to have a professional do a screen and recoat. This is where they use special sanding screens to lightly abrade the floor’s finish to help the new urethane bond better to the existing finish. With some wood floors you may be able to just replace the damaged boards. It is best to leave the sand and recoat, or board replacement to a professional flooring installer, or refinisher.

I have pets - Can I install a hardwood floor?

Although many homeowners have pets, hardwood flooring is not designed for the abuse a dog or cat can cause on a floor. Urine may permanently discolor the finish of the wood floor and large dogs’ claws will probably leave scratches in the finish. The type of wood floor you buy, the color and the finish will also be factor in how much punishment the floor’s finish can withstand before showing scratches and excessive wear.

Can an engineered wood floor be refinished?

Some of the better quality engineered wood floors have a 1/8″ thick finish layer and can be sanded and refinished 1 or maybe 2 times. The sanding and refinishing of an engineered wood floor is best done by an experienced hardwood flooring refinisher. If you have heat vents in your floor you can remove a heat cover to get a side view of your wood floor. This will help you check to see how thick you finish layer is. Always consult with the manufacturer to see if the recommend sanding and refinishing of the engineered wood floors.

Can I use throw rugs on my hardwood floor?

Before using any throw rugs on your wood floor you should know the type of finish you have on the floor. All rugs should be non-staining, meaning the colored dyes will not bleed. Generally in the presence of moisture, some dyes used in rugs may bleed through onto your floor and discolor the wood floors surface. Also, be sure the rug does not have a rough backing material that may scratch the surface of the floor. Clean dirt and debris from under the rug regularly. To prevent possible shading of the wood underneath the rug, move the rug occasionally.

How do we stop a wood floor from gapping?

Gapping in solid wood floors cannot be stopped completely. Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. Using a humidifier during the heating months may help reduce the amount of gapping in solid wood floors. Also, some wood species may gap expand and contract less than others. Engineered wood floors are much more dimensionally stable than solid wood floors and will show little or no gaps between planks.

What should I use under furniture legs?

Most flooring stores carry the recommended felt pads for using under chair legs and other furniture. The felt pads come in various sizes. Some pads just stick on the bottom of the legs and others need to be nailed on. Never hit the pads directly with a hammer. Follow the directions provided with the pads. Check and clean the pads often to prevent debris, dirt and small particles from being trapped in the pad, which may cause scratches in the wood floor’s finish.

…About Porcelain:

Porcelain Tiles Information

How hard are porcelain tiles compared to other natural stone tiles on the market?

Porcelain tiles are around 30% stronger than natural stone tiles on the market meaning less scratches, chipped tiles and broken tiles.

Are porcelain tiles less maintenance and cheaper to lay compared to other tiles?

Porcelain tiles are virtually maintenance free. Porcelain tiles can be laid straight away as they don’t need any preparation. The conclusion is porcelain tiles are a far cheaper solution to the consumer as you are only paying for laying time and not preparation as your tiler can lay more m2 a day in porcelain compared to marble. Once down porcelain tiles take no taking care of and no long term maintenance as natural stone tiles does.

Are porcelain tiles environmentally friendly?

Porcelain tiles are environmentally friendly due to the use of natural products such as clay and the manufacturing process. The manufacturing process virtually generates no byproducts and the waste is recycled back into the manufacturing process for the next batch of tiles.

Does water and frost damage porcelain tiles?

Porcelain tiles can be used in outdoor areas because of it’s durability in colder climates which are frosty. Water does not penetrate porcelain due to its low absorption at 0.5% so porcelain is fantastic in bathrooms and kitchens. Porcelain does not stain so it’s an ideal low maintenance product.

Is porcelain resistant to abrasion as is it clean surface compared to other flooring?

Porcelain tiles are fantastic in high traffic areas and will not need to be treated against scratches and abrasions. Sometimes porcelain might get aluminum burns into the tiles from a chair dragged across the floor leaving what looks like a scratch. The solution to a burn from metals which looks like a scratch it acid and wire wool, after a little scrubbing the scratch will disappear leaving the tile as good as new. Porcelain is resistant to chemicals, cleaning agent’s alkalis, acids and bacteria making porcelain tiled floors very hygienic.

Can large size porcelain tiles can be manufactured?

They way porcelain tiles are manufactured allows tiles in sizes such as 1000mm x 1000m 1200mm x 1000mm and even up to 2000mm x 1000mm in commercial places. These tiles are becoming more popular due to contemporary living where people want big tiles to make rooms look more spacious and less grout lines.

…About Stone

How long will my natural stone floor last?

If it’s installed and cared for properly it should last the lifetime of a house. Stone is one of the most durable of all floorings-when properly installed. Its toughness combined with the natural beauty of stone makes it the material of choice where quality and character are important.

Is my sample good to go by?

Samples are a great way of giving you a rough idea of how thick the stone will be and to give you a taste of what’s to come. But stone is a product of nature, and variations in colour and characteristics are the elements that let every installation be unique. No one sample can indicate all the possible permutations that may be present in a stone. All the tiles featured in this brochure have been selected from a typical range of each type, but it would not be possible to exhibit the full diversity. For large projects, it is highly recommended you ask for an array of samples.

How can I ensure I get the look I want?

Blending’s a great way to have a good look at your floor before it’s installed. The installer must have an understanding of blending requirements or special patterns as part of the job. In addition it is practical to consider wastage on each project before ordering, for instance minor damage to some stones which may occur in transportation or during site handling, site cutting and grading. Under normal circumstances, 10% should be allowed for that purpose. Whilst sorting tiles to ensure suitable blending, normal practice calls for segregation of tiles with minor damages or some unusual markings. They can be used where cut tiles are required, or in less visible locations.

How will the colour vary?

Stone tiles are always packed in wet conditions at the factory and cannot properly dry out until unpacked; they will lighten in colour as they dry. It is therefore quintessential that all tiles are completely dry prior to installation to be able to assess any colour variation present. To check this, it may be necessary to place a tile in front of a direct heat source to see the true colour of the stone when it is totally dry.

How is fixing natural stone different to fixing porcelain tiles?

In general, the fixing of natural stones employs similar techniques and materials to those used for fixing ceramic tiling. Natural stones, however, possess specific properties that need to be taken into consideration when fixed using adhesives. For example:

Adhesive Bedding

The size of the stone can range from mosaic size up to large floor slabs of more than 1 meter square. Bedding of these natural stone tiles should be carried out using cement-based adhesives when using solid bed method.

• Use a white cement-based adhesive with light coloured stone tiles where a dark adhesive would show through. This risk can be minimised in dry, internal locations by either priming the backs of the tiles, or bedding in a rapid drying adhesive.
• Thin solid bed fixing is usually the best procedure and the technique of blob fixing (commonly used to temporarily bed stone cladding just prior to mechanical fixing), should be avoided as this is a poor fixing technique and may lead to the blobs being visible through the tile, concentrate loads and stresses to a small area of the tile and allow water penetration behind the tiling.

Grouting

The grouting technique should fill the joints adequately with grout mortar so that the long term performance is accomplished. With deep narrow joints between natural stone floor tiles the grouting technique may have to consist of at least two applications to progressively fill up the joints. This is because the initial application of grout mortar may sink down into any voids at the bottom of the joints as the trapped air slowly escapes. Stones with textured surfaces such as antique stone tend to have larger joint widths of 6-10 mm, whilst honed and polished stone joints can be 3-5 mm.

Cement-based grout mortars are most appropriate for stone jointing.

• Natural stone tiles require sealing prior to grouting. Care should be taken to prevent the sealer coming into contact with the sides of the tiles; otherwise adhesion of the grout may be impaired.

Although certain types and sources of natural stone do have particular properties which need to be catered for in terms of particular adhesive and grout selection it is important to bear in mind that the vast majority of quality natural stones do not give rise to problems but, due to natural variations, are difficult to identify, however, the use of correct fixing techniques utilising rapid drying adhesives will satisfy most situations.